How to Make Magnetic Cribbage Pegs That Stay Put
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A loose peg rolling under the table can stop a great hand cold. If you want to make magnetic cribbage pegs, the goal is not just a clever upgrade. It is a better-playing board: pegs that register cleanly, stay with the board during travel, and look like they belong on a custom piece rather than a toy-store game set.
Magnetic pegs work especially well on travel boards, vertical display boards, and personalized gifts that will see plenty of kitchen-table action. The trick is building the peg and board as a matched system. A strong magnet in a beautiful peg is useless if there is nothing compatible beneath the playing surface.
Choose Your Magnetic Peg System First
There are two dependable ways to add magnetic hold to cribbage pegs. The best choice depends on whether you are building a new board or upgrading one you already own.
The cleanest option for a new wooden board is a peg with a small rare-earth magnet installed in its base, paired with a thin steel washer or steel plate hidden beneath each peg position. The peg’s stem still enters the cribbage hole, so scoring remains precise. The magnet simply holds the peg down and keeps it from wandering when the board gets bumped.
For a board with limited space under the playing surface, install a small magnet in the peg and use a magnetic sheet or thin steel strip below the track area. This is often easier on a travel board where the underside may already have a storage compartment, hinges, or a folding mechanism.
You can also put magnets in both the board and the pegs. That approach creates a stronger hold, but it comes with one annoying trade-off: magnet polarity. If one peg repels a board position instead of attracting it, you have an expensive little lesson in checking orientation before glue cures. For most makers, magnet-to-steel is simpler, more forgiving, and plenty secure.
Materials and Tools for Magnetic Cribbage Pegs
You do not need a full production shop to make a handsome set, but accuracy matters. Cribbage pegs are small, and tiny mistakes show up quickly in the hand.
- Hardwood dowel, scrap hardwood, acrylic rod, or resin blanks for the peg bodies
- Small neodymium disc magnets, typically 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch diameter
- Steel washers, thin steel sheet, or magnetic steel strip for the board
- Drill press or pin vise with bits sized for peg stems and magnets
- Two-part epoxy or quality CA glue, plus sandpaper and a finish
For peg bodies, dense hardwoods such as maple, walnut, cherry, or padauk feel excellent and hold up to years of play. Acrylic can bring bold color to a modern board, while resin opens the door to swirls, metallic effects, and team colors. Keep the material choice in line with the board. A rustic walnut board usually calls for warm wood pegs, while a bright laser-cut travel board can carry a little more color and personality.
Size the Peg Before You Drill
A standard cribbage peg needs a stem that fits the holes without wobbling. Many boards use 1/8-inch holes, but do not assume yours does. Measure a hole with calipers or test-fit a piece of drill rod before turning or cutting a full set of pegs.
The stem should slide in easily, yet it should not lean dramatically when the board is moved. A common starting point is a 1/8-inch stem around 3/8 inch long, with a head large enough to grab comfortably. If your board is a travel style, a shorter stem and lower-profile head may pack better. If it is a showpiece intended for regular home games, a taller, more sculpted head can feel more satisfying.
Leave enough material in the peg head for the magnet. A magnet that is too large can split a narrow wooden peg, especially if the grain runs poorly. When in doubt, use a slightly wider peg head and a smaller magnet rather than forcing a big magnet into a delicate piece.
Turn or Shape the Peg Bodies
A lathe makes quick work of peg bodies, but it is not required. You can shape hardwood pegs from square stock with a drill, sandpaper, and patience, or start with dowel stock and focus on clean, consistent heads. Make a few extra bodies before finishing. It is much easier to match a replacement now than months after the board has been gifted.
Aim for consistent dimensions across each color set. Players can feel the difference between a peg that is comfortable and one that is awkwardly narrow or top-heavy. A gentle dome, barrel, or mushroom shape usually gives the best grip without blocking nearby scoring holes.
Sand the bodies through fine grits, then finish them before installing the magnets. Oil, wax, or a durable clear coat can all work. Just avoid building up so much finish on the stem that your carefully sized peg no longer fits the board.
Drill the Magnet Pocket
Mark the center of the peg base and drill a flat-bottomed pocket slightly deeper than the magnet thickness. A drill press gives you the cleanest result because it keeps the hole centered and square. If you are working with a hand drill, secure the peg in a simple V-block or small clamp jig. Never try to hold a tiny peg between your fingers while drilling.
Test the magnet in the pocket before adding adhesive. It should sit flush with or just below the base. A magnet sticking proud can scratch a finished board or keep the peg from seating fully in its hole.
Use a small amount of two-part epoxy for the most dependable bond. Press the magnet into place, wipe away squeeze-out immediately, and let it cure fully. CA glue can work for light-duty sets, but epoxy is less likely to become brittle after years of use and temperature changes.
Add the Steel Attraction Layer to Your Board
This is where magnetic cribbage pegs become a functioning system instead of a neat workshop experiment. The steel needs to sit close enough to the board’s playing surface for the magnet to grab, but it should remain hidden and should not interfere with the peg holes.
For a new board, drill the scoring holes first. Then rout or carve a shallow recess on the underside of the track area and attach a thin steel strip or sheet. Keep the steel flat. Any bump underneath can prevent the board from sitting properly on a table.
Small steel washers are another good option when you only want magnetic hold at certain positions, such as the starting holes or the finish line. They are less useful if you want every scoring position to hold a peg securely. A continuous steel backing gives every hole the same feel and lets players place pegs anywhere on the track without thinking about it.
Before permanently mounting the steel, test the pull through a scrap piece of wood of similar thickness. Wood thickness, magnet strength, and steel gauge all affect the hold. You want enough force to keep pegs in place when the board is tipped or carried, but not so much that players need to tug hard and risk pulling a delicate peg apart.
A good test is the gentle shake test. With pegs in the board, lift it slightly and give it a few controlled shakes. The pegs should stay put, then release cleanly with two fingers. If they drop out, use stronger magnets or thinner material between the peg and steel. If they feel stubborn, reduce magnet strength or increase the separation slightly.
Avoid the Mistakes That Ruin a Good Set
The most common problem is overdoing magnet strength. Stronger is not always better. An oversized magnet can make a peg feel clumsy, catch neighboring pegs, or crack a slim hardwood head. Start with a modest disc magnet and test on actual board material.
Another problem is drilling holes too deep or too wide. A loose magnet can rattle inside the peg, and a deep pocket can leave too little wood at the face. Make one complete prototype first. Test its fit, feel, and holding power before committing to a full six-peg or nine-peg set.
Keep magnets away from young children and pets. Small neodymium magnets are not harmless craft supplies if swallowed. Store extras in a marked container, clean your work area carefully, and make sure every installed magnet is fully secured.
Make the Set Feel Custom, Not Merely Magnetic
This upgrade earns its keep when the pegs look as good as they function. Pair contrasting wood species for each player, add a painted band near the head, or use small engraved marks to distinguish colors without relying on plastic. A personalized board deserves pegs with the same attention to detail.
At Custom Crib Boards, we love the kind of upgrade that turns a familiar game into a piece people want to leave on the coffee table. Magnetic pegs are especially rewarding because the improvement is immediate: fewer lost pieces, cleaner travel, and a more intentional playing experience.
Build one prototype, play a few real hands with it, and pay attention to the little moments. Does the peg lift comfortably? Does it sit straight? Does it stay put when the board moves? Get those details right, and your next cribbage board will not just be customized. It will be ready to buy, play, and brag about.